Are Your Shoes Really Comfortable?

“No one knows where the shoe pinches like the wearer.”​—ATTRIBUTED TO A ROMAN SAGE.

WHEN was the last time you bought a pair of shoes? How did they fit you? Were they comfortable? How long did it take you to choose them? How helpful was the shop assistant or fitter? Did you buy them for style rather than comfort? How do they feel now that you have worn them a while? Do they pinch you anywhere?

Buying shoes is not as simple as it sounds. And getting the right size is almost like stepping into a labyrinth. Why is that?

Getting the Right Fit

First of all, which is your larger foot​—right or left? You think they are both the same? Think again! Another factor to take into account is that each foot has four phases of fit: static fit, weight-bearing fit, functional fit, and thermal fit. What are the differences?

Regarding static fit, the book Professional Shoe Fitting says: “This is the fit of the shoe with the foot at rest (the customer seated).” As the expression “weight-bearing fit” suggests, it is measured when the person is standing. This position changes the size and shape of the foot. The above-quoted reference states: “The foot at rest is essentially a loose bag of bones and gristle that suddenly ‘solidifies’ on weightbearing, becoming a foot of different fit requirements.” But there are two more fits.

The functional fit is the fit under dynamic conditions​—when walking, running, jumping, or doing other exercise. This “creates a foot of different combinations of size, shape and proportions.” The fourth fit is the thermal, which refers to the alterations that  take place as a result of heat, humidity, and moisture. These can cause an increase of 5 percent in foot volume. Little wonder that it is a relief to take your shoes off at the end of the day, especially if you are wearing the wrong size! And often that is the case.

How Are Your Feet Measured?

For years Eric had been buying shoes sized 10 and a half or 11, medium width. During that same period, he was constantly bothered by both a corn on a hammertoe and an ingrown toenail on the left big toe. His podiatrist suggested that he have his feet measured by a professional shoe fitter. To Eric’s amazement, for comfort his size should have been 12 and a half, A width! “A” indicates a narrow foot. But are two linear measurements, length and width, enough to ensure a comfortable fit? How should you measure your feet?

A popular tool in some countries for assessing size is the Brannock device. (See photo.) This can be used to obtain three basic measurements: the overall length of the foot, the distance from the heel to the ball joint, and the ball width. But, of course, each foot has its own shape and volume. For that obvious reason, we try shoes on before we buy them. Herein can lie a trap. Have you ever had the experience of trying on shoes that you really like, only to find that they pinch slightly? “The shoes will stretch,” says the salesman. You buy them and begin to regret it a few days or weeks after you start wearing them. And there is the beginning of your next corn, ingrown toenail, or bunion!

Are You Getting That Perfect Fit?

Is it possible to find a perfect fit? Professional Shoe Fitting gives the quick answer no. Why not? “Because of several insurmountable obstacles.  . . . No person has two feet of exactly the same size, shape, proportions or functional character.” So if a shoe is perfect for your larger foot, it will not quite fit the bill for the other one. “This does not suggest that good fit isn’t achievable, but only that we should be more cautious about the term or idea of ‘perfect’ fit.”

If you want to see where your feet are causing pressure in a shoe, take a look at some of your old, used shoes. Look inside the shoe at the lining. Where do you notice the most wear? Frequently, the evidence will point to the heel seat, behind the heel, and to the ball of the foot. What does this mean? It means that “certain sections of the shoe are not properly mated with the corresponding sections of the foot. Some sections are getting excessive wear while others are virtually untouched.”

Even the throat of the shoe is important for comfort. Have you noticed that shoes can have different throat-line styles? With the bal style, the two upper quarters are pulled together at the lowest lace point. However, if you have fleshy feet, then the blucher style is more comfortable, since the sides remain separated at the lowest lace point. (See diagram.) Why is this detail important? The same source says: “Many or most heel irritations from the shoe are often the direct result of a shoe being too tight at the throat, thus crowding the heel back against the counter.”

What About Women’s High-Heeled Shoes?

The female preference for high heels imposes different stresses on the body. High heels tend to alter body posture, often causing a forward tilt, which, in turn, demands more knee bend in order to keep the body straight. High heels also contract the calf muscles, which then become more prominent.

Thus, the heel is often the crucial part of a woman’s shoe and the key to her comfort or discomfort. Professional Shoe Fitting says that there are three prime reasons for the heels on shoes: ‘(1) “status,” such as adding to one’s height, (2) cosmetic purposes​—an added design or style feature on the shoe, and (3) enhanced appearance—​such as women’s high heels giving more contour to the legs.’

Women should be particularly conscious of the heel pitch, which determines where the line of the body weight passes through the heel. If that line is at the rear or front edge of the heel, trouble could result. Why is that? Because it can lead to the heel buckling and causing a nasty fall.

From this brief discussion, it is evident that getting the right fit of shoes takes time and perhaps even extra expense, since a good shoe requires more time to produce. But your shoes can mean so much to your general comfort and even to your health. So take your time. Get proper measurements. Be patient. Do not be fooled by fashion or appearances.

[Box on page 20]

Points to Watch When Choosing Shoes

William A. Rossi and Ross Tennant offer the following suggestions in their book Professional Shoe Fitting.

“The purpose of measuring the foot is not, as supposed, to determine the precise shoe size required.” Why is that? Because shoe sizes can be affected by many factors, such as heel height, style, patterns, materials used, and brand. This is especially true today when footwear is being manufactured in so many countries with varying standards.

When your foot is measured, pull the toe of the sock or stocking forward so that the toes are not bent, resulting in a false reading.

How should you be measured​—seated or standing? “To measure with the customer seated is the lazy way.” It results in a false reading. Therefore, stand up to have your feet measured. Yes, both feet. Do not assume that the left foot is the larger. Measure both!

“Professional shoe fitting is a skill and service that is the exclusive territory of an elite corps of individuals associated with an equally elite legion of stores who understand and appreciate the importance of highly skilled shoe fitting.”

[Diagrams on page 19]

(For fully formatted text, see publication)

Components of a shoe

sole

vamp

throat

sock lining

heel breast

top lift

toe cap

outsole

welt

vamp

throat line

tongue bar

quarter

heel pad

heel

[Pictures on page 20]

The Brannock device

[Picture on page 21]

All shoe designs are based on these seven basic styles

[Pictures on page 21]

Throat-line styles

Blucher

Bal